When to go
Most of the Indian Himalaya is free from the full brunt of the monsoon season, sweeping through the rest of the country from June to mid September. This makes it an ideal region to visit over summer - in any case being so high up, it’s snowlocked for some 8 months of the year. But global changes being what they are, the distinct patterns that have been relied on over the last few decades are now seriously smudged, with rains arriving weeks and weeks late. So don’t take the dates here too literally, as things are changing noticeably each year.
Manali to Leh
Officially, the Manali to Leh highway is open from mid-June and closes in mid-September. This said, buses and jeeps generally shuttle backwards and forwards for a couple of weeks afterwards, even if services are reduced – it just depends on what conditions are like. Some cyclists tackle the road in October, though there's often snow on the pass tops by then, while Rhotang Jot stays open till mid-November. Shielded from the monsoons, most of the Manali to Leh road is free from rain, though heavy storms are still possible over the tops of high passes - so make sure you’re prepared for anything. Manali and Kullu get their fair share of moisture throughout the summer, while Rhotang is often cold, wet and misty, making chilly descents. Once over the pass and into Lahaul, things dry up considerably – there’s rarely a drop to be seen beyond Baralacha La.
It’s possible to race from Manali to Leh in less than a week, but if you’re travelling independently, we’d advise taking things easy, enjoying the scenery and stretching it out to 9 days or more. Which, unless you’re already acclimatised, you may well need. Our itineraries allow 12 days from Manali to Leh, as we take detours to Tso Kar lake and Hemis Monastery. From Leh to Manali we allow 11 days, which includes the ‘back’ road via Puga and Tso Kar.
Don’t forget that while flying out of Leh makes a quick and easy return to Delhi, saving several days of bumpy jeep and bus rides, planes are prone to delays unless conditions are perfect. If you’re intending to link up with an international flight back home, always allow at least a day or two leeway.
With this in mind, we'd suggest allowing three to three and a half weeks for the entire trip, including the flights. This allows time to find your feet in Delhi and rest up in Manali after the long bus ride. Then you can enjoy the ride and a couple of detours without rushing, have a few days to explore Leh's backstreets and ride up Khardung La for your finale. In the extra couple of days in Delhi, you can try an Indian train ride and head out to the Taj Mahal or wander round the markets - dodging motor rickshaws as you go.
Spiti
Spiti itself is open for cycling from mid July to the end of October, before and after which Kunzum La is generally impassable, isolating the region. On either side of Spiti, Rohtang Jot remains open till mid-November while Kinnaur is reachable throughout the year – though it clips the tail of the monsoon, generally causing several landslides. As does Shimla, where rain can be expected throughout the summer.
Our trips allow for 17 days of travel time from Shimla to Manali, which includes several unmarked jeep tracks, detours to various monasteries and a stay at Chandra Tal lake. If you’re travelling independently, there are other loops to be made – eg Manali to Manali via Jalori Pass – with all manner of side trips, which take anything from under two weeks at their most direct to well over a month. Bear in mind that the southern side of Jalori Pass is susceptible to serious landslides over the summer, and similar delays in Kinnaur - which grind traffic to a halt but can be scampered over by cyclists - can also delay progress.
Temperatures
During the day, it's hot enough (20-22c) for a t-shirt and shorts. At high altitude, the sun is particularly fierce, though it's not oppressive as the air is very dry. It's much colder early in the morning and when the sun's down (5c) while at nighttime temperatures really drop, and it sometimes goes below freezing (-5c) at high altitude on the edge of the summer season. See Kit List for what kind of clothing we recommend.
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